We had traversed Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, and Argentina without seeing a single one, as I had gone without the dark, shaggy anteater; as had Nathan without the python, except in a dream. For the most part, though, we had made our peace with the shadowy places in our imaginations where it seemed they would stay, lumbering, slinking, coiling and uncoiling, just out of sight.
Read moreUshuaia: The End of the World or The End of the Road?
While our bodies felt solid and were sensate to the warm, cheerful ambiance of the restaurant, our spirits seethed, frothed, pounded against the cracks of our beings. If we had somehow been made less substantial, we could be everywhere at once. We could roam without end. It was as if all the anguished whys and whats of childhood were close at hand; we guarded against the kinds of tears that adults learn not to shed. Why do I have to go to bed? Why can’t I live forever? It was hard not to look at each other in the eye, for we knew what we’d see there. I don’t want to go home.
Read moreWhere are we going to so fast? My thoughts on the Royal Enfield Himalayan
From the moment the bike was announced, I was smitten. In its graceful profile I saw an unabashedly romantic motorcycle that embraced the aesthetic simplicity of the golden age of machines that hadn't yet been given minds of their own. It harkened back to the early days of adventure motorcycling, when BMW was just beginning to experiment with setting a big bike loose in the sand dunes of Dakar. Then, the motorcycle was a humble beast and the rider, her master.
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